Growing up in the shadow of the Cascade Mountains, adventure and athletics were always at the foreground of my life. While attending the University of Washington, I was introduced to climbing amidst a difficult pursuit of school and the demanding practice schedule of the university’s varsity rowing program. In the same way that I approached the rigors and routine of a fulltime collegiate athlete, my training and passion to push myself segued into my pursuit as a climber.
Seventeen years later I am constantly training for the most beautiful, difficult, remote, technical faces in the world. Be it rock, ice, or mixed I love them all. In the last several years free climbed El Capitan in a single day, mixed climbed M11, put up first ascents all over North America, Asia, and Patagonia and repeated one of Alaska’s most difficult grade 6 routes. For me going climbing is always easy, the biggest challenge is maintaining that symbiotic life balance of work, passion, and relationships.
A few of my favorite climbs to date
Original Sin: First Free Ascent of Mt. Hookers 1964 Royal Robbins Route. 5.12+, Wind River Range, Wyoming with Maury Birdwell: 2017
The Armageddon: First Free Ascent. 5.12+ North Howser Tower, Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia with Maury Birdwell: 2016
The Rumble Strip: Mike Pennings and I established a crazy new first ascent on Mt. Chamberlin in the deep Eastern Sierra taking huge falls for the first time in the super remote alpine. 5.12d, 8 pitches, one of the best experiences of my life just weeks after one of the worst experiences of my life bailing on a Pakistan Expedition due to a horrible terrorist attack.
Freerider in a day: Led every pitch in 15 hours with only one fall which was climbed second try with Dave Alfrey following with Jumars (second time to redpoint the route). El Capitan, Yosemite October 2012.
- The Slovak Direct: Alaska Range, Denali South Face: 80 hour effort with 2 bivouacs climbed with Mark Westman, fifth overall ascent, fourth alpine style ascent.
- The Shadow: 5.13, 50m, full ledge-to-ledge free ascent: The Chief, Squamish B.C., August 2010
- The Moonlight Buttress: 5.12d, 400m, led and freed every pitch in a continuous one-day ascent: Zion National Park, UT,
- Free ascent of the Dru Couliour Direct on the North face of the Dru in Chamonix France.
- “The Squamish Triple Crown:” 26 hour Linkup of University Wall 5.12b, Roman Chimneys 5.11a, The Northern Lights 5.12a, Freeway 5.11d, 35 pitches no falls: Squamish B.C.
- Tague Yer Time: 5.12, 600m 2 day free ascent: Black Canyon of the Gunnison CO,
- One day ascent of “The Linkup” combining the Regular NW Face of Half Dome & The Nose of El Capitan
- The Real Big Drip: M7, WI6, 400m, Ghost Valley, Canadian Rockies, Alberta
- T2 (mixed start to The Terminator): M7, WI6++, 200m, Mt. Rundle Banff,
- New route on Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge: Sichuan China, Siguniang National Park, 5.11- 40+ pitches
- First Ascent of “Gringo’s Perdidos,” North Pillar of Fitz Roy, Established a 9 Pitch 5.11 variation to the Kearney Knight Route on the “Cassarotto Pillar” Patagonia, Argentina.
- First Ascent of “Last Gringo’s Standing” on Aguja St. Exupery Fitz Roy Massif: Established a 14 pitch new 5.11 route on the Eastern side of St. Exupery Patagonia Argentina.
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